Reference:Bracelets - Revision history

Admin: Add Air-King bracelet membership to 6635 / 7205 / 7835 / 78350; add new end-link entries 57 / 357 / 557 / 557B for the Air-King 19mm lug-width line (cross-fits with Explorer 1016 on the 357 / Oyster Perpetual 1002 across the run)

2026-04-30T03:23:39Z

Add Air-King bracelet membership to 6635 / 7205 / 7835 / 78350; add new end-link entries 57 / 357 / 557 / 557B for the Air-King 19mm lug-width line (cross-fits with Explorer 1016 on the 357 / Oyster Perpetual 1002 across the run)

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:23, 30 April 2026
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	! Ref !! Name !! Years !! Link type !! End-link compatibility !! Families fitted !! Notes		! Ref !! Name !! Years !! Link type !! End-link compatibility !! Families fitted !! Notes
	\|-		\|-
	\| <span id="bracelet-6635"></span>'''6635''' \|\| Oyster rivet, 19mm (early Cosmograph) \|\| 1955–1962 \|\| Rivet \|\| 271 \|\| Daytona, Oyster Perpetual \|\| Pre-Cosmograph rivet for the chronograph 6234 / 6238 era. Largely supplanted by 7205 by the 6239 launch.		\| <span id="bracelet-6635"></span>'''6635''' \|\| Oyster rivet, 19mm (early Cosmograph) \|\| 1955–1962 \|\| Rivet \|\| 271 (Daytona) / 57 (Air-King) \|\| Daytona, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual \|\| Pre-Cosmograph rivet for the chronograph 6234 / 6238 era. Largely supplanted by 7205 by the 6239 launch.
	\|-		\|-
	\| <span id="bracelet-7205"></span>'''7205''' \|\| Oyster rivet, 19mm \|\| 1958–1969 \|\| Rivet \|\| 271 \|\| Daytona, Oyster Perpetual \|\| 19mm sport / Air-King / Precision rivet bracelet. The 20mm Sport-model sibling is 7206. US-market C&I (Connecticut) made an unmarked-end-link 19mm rivet analogue 1959–1979; not a Rolex part.		\| <span id="bracelet-7205"></span>'''7205''' \|\| Oyster rivet, 19mm \|\| 1958–1969 \|\| Rivet \|\| 271 (Daytona) / 57 / 357 (Air-King) \|\| Daytona, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual\|\| 19mm sport / Air-King / Precision rivet bracelet. The 20mm Sport-model sibling is 7206. US-market C&I (Connecticut) made an unmarked-end-link 19mm rivet analogue 1959–1979; not a Rolex part.
	\|-		\|-
	\| <span id="bracelet-7206"></span>'''7206''' \|\| Oyster rivet, 20mm \|\| 1958–1969 \|\| Rivet \|\| 58, 60, 80 \|\| Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer \|\| Two sub-generations: early small rivets (1958–early 60s) shifting to larger rivets in the mid-60s. End-link 80 is the 5513-era stamp; 58 / 60 carry on earlier small-crown / 1960 holdovers.		\| <span id="bracelet-7206"></span>'''7206''' \|\| Oyster rivet, 20mm \|\| 1958–1969 \|\| Rivet \|\| 58, 60, 80 \|\| Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer \|\| Two sub-generations: early small rivets (1958–early 60s) shifting to larger rivets in the mid-60s. End-link 80 is the 5513-era stamp; 58 / 60 carry on earlier small-crown / 1960 holdovers.
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	\| <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' \|\| Oyster rivet, 20mm (early Sport-model) \|\| 1953–1958 \|\| Rivet \|\| 58, 60 \|\| Submariner, Explorer \|\| Earliest Oyster rivet for the Sport-model line. Pre-7206 generation, lighter gauge.		\| <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' \|\| Oyster rivet, 20mm (early Sport-model) \|\| 1953–1958 \|\| Rivet \|\| 58, 60 \|\| Submariner, Explorer \|\| Earliest Oyster rivet for the Sport-model line. Pre-7206 generation, lighter gauge.
	\|-		\|-
	\| <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' \|\| Oyster folded link, 19mm \|\| 1969–1976 \|\| Folded \|\| 271 \|\| Daytona \|\| Folded-link successor to 7205 on the 19mm Daytona case. Some aggregator tables show "771" — propagated OCR error of "271"; independent dealer photos only ever stamp 271.		\| <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' \|\| Oyster folded link, 19mm \|\| 1969–1976 \|\| Folded \|\| 271 (Daytona) / 357 (Air-King / Explorer 1016) \|\| Daytona, Air-King, Explorer\|\| Folded-link successor to 7205 on the 19mm Daytona case. Some aggregator tables show "771" — propagated OCR error of "271"; independent dealer photos only ever stamp 271.
	\|-		\|-
	\| <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' \|\| Oyster folded link, 20mm \|\| 1969–1976 \|\| Folded \|\| 380, 380B \|\| Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer \|\| 20mm Sport-model sibling of 7835. Documented through five-digit transitional production prior to the solid-link 93150 generation.		\| <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' \|\| Oyster folded link, 20mm \|\| 1969–1976 \|\| Folded \|\| 380, 380B \|\| Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer \|\| 20mm Sport-model sibling of 7835. Documented through five-digit transitional production prior to the solid-link 93150 generation.
	\|-		\|-
	\| <span id="bracelet-78350"></span>'''78350''' \|\| Oyster folded link, 20mm ~~(later folded)~~ \|\| ~~1976–1984~~ \|\| Folded \|\| 571, 380 \|\| Daytona, Submariner \|\| Late folded generation; documented as 78350-17 and 78350-19 width variants on the Millenary spec sheets. Substituted on later 6263 / 6265 production where original 7835 had failed.		\| <span id="bracelet-78350"></span>'''78350''' \|\| Oyster folded link, 19mm / 20mm \|\| 1976–1989 \|\| Folded → solid (78350A) \|\| 571, 380 (Daytona/Submariner) / 557 / 557B (Air-King) \|\| Daytona, Submariner, Air-King \|\| Late folded generation; documented as 78350-17 and 78350-19 width variants on the Millenary spec sheets. Substituted on later 6263 / 6265 production where original 7835 had failed.
	\|-		\|-
	\| <span id="bracelet-78360"></span>'''78360''' \|\| Oyster solid link, 20mm (full matte) \|\| 1976–1993 \|\| Solid \|\| 503, 580 \|\| Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer \|\| First solid-link Oyster, brushed throughout. The 78360 → 78390 cutover on the Daytona 16520 sits in a 1991–1993 band: chrono-shop's archived 16520 listing places 78390 production start at 1991, the Blackbird Watch Manual at 1993.		\| <span id="bracelet-78360"></span>'''78360''' \|\| Oyster solid link, 20mm (full matte) \|\| 1976–1993 \|\| Solid \|\| 503, 580 \|\| Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer \|\| First solid-link Oyster, brushed throughout. The 78360 → 78390 cutover on the Daytona 16520 sits in a 1991–1993 band: chrono-shop's archived 16520 listing places 78390 production start at 1991, the Blackbird Watch Manual at 1993.
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	\|-		\|-
	\| <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral SEL''' \|\| 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 \|\| Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV / 126610LN / 126610LV / 126613LB / 126613LN / 126618LN; GMT-Master 116710LN / 116710BLNR / 126710BLNR / 126710BLRO / 126713GRNR / 126718GRNR / 126719BLRO \|\| SEL \|\| 2003 onward \|\| Modern Sport-model end-links are integral to the first link of the bracelet and not separable. No printed end-link ref number; the bracelet ref carries the full SKU.		\| <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral SEL''' \|\| 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 \|\| Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV / 126610LN / 126610LV / 126613LB / 126613LN / 126618LN; GMT-Master 116710LN / 116710BLNR / 126710BLNR / 126710BLRO / 126713GRNR / 126718GRNR / 126719BLRO \|\| SEL \|\| 2003 onward \|\| Modern Sport-model end-links are integral to the first link of the bracelet and not separable. No printed end-link ref number; the bracelet ref carries the full SKU.
			\|-
			\| <span id="end-link-57"></span>'''57''' \|\| 6635 / 7205 \|\| Air-King 5500 (1957–c.1965), Oyster Perpetual 1002 (early) \|\| HEL \|\| c.1965 (transition to 357) \|\| 19mm rivet end-link for the early Air-King line. Sometimes co-stamped with 357 on transitional bracelets. Phillips Geneva FOUR 2016 lot 22 documents a 1965 5500 with both 57 and 357 stampings present
			\|-
			\| <span id="end-link-357"></span>'''357''' \|\| 7205 / 7835 \|\| Air-King 5500 (c.1965–c.1976), Oyster Perpetual 1002, Explorer 1016 (mid-run) \|\| HEL \|\| c.1976 (transition to 557) \|\| 19mm folded-link end-link succeeding the 57. Long-run fitment across the Cal 1520 era 5500 and the mid-production 1016 Explorer
			\|-
			\| <span id="end-link-557"></span>'''557''' \|\| 78350 \|\| Air-King 5500 (c.1976–1989), Oyster Perpetual 1002 (late) \|\| HEL \|\| c.1989 (replaced by integrated SEL on 14000) \|\| 19mm solid-link end-link for late-run Air-King. The 5500's final factory bracelet configuration
			\|-
			\| <span id="end-link-557B"></span>'''557B''' \|\| 78350 \|\| Air-King 5500 (late 1980s) \|\| HEL \|\| c.1989 \|\| B-suffix variant of 557 with refined tolerances. Late-1980s 5500 production
	\|}		\|}

Admin: Slop sweep: paragraph challenge + AI-tone scrub

2026-04-27T13:39:12Z

Slop sweep: paragraph challenge + AI-tone scrub

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:39, 27 April 2026
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	<small>[[Main Page]] -> '''Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types'''</small>		<small>[[Main Page]] -> '''Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types'''</small>

	~~This page is the cross~~-family bracelet decoder: Oyster, Jubilee, President, end links, clasp generations, and link construction ~~types~~. ~~Use it to answer~~ four ~~questions fast~~: what ~~bracelet~~ is it, what end links fit, what year does the clasp suggest, and is ~~the bracelet~~ original, period-correct, or later service.		Cross-family bracelet decoder for the project: Oyster, Jubilee, and President bracelet refs, the end links that pair with them, the clasp generations, and the five link-construction families. The questions a collector asks of a vintage Rolex bracelet are always the same four: what is it, what end links fit, what year does the clasp code suggest, and is it original, period-correct, or a later service replacement.

	A clasp code dates the bracelet, not the watch head. The pairings below describe original-equipment fitment unless noted otherwise.		A clasp code dates the bracelet, not the watch head. The pairings below describe original-equipment fitment unless noted otherwise.
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	== Bracelets by reference ==		== Bracelets by reference ==

	The table ~~below~~ covers every Oyster-line bracelet ref tracked in the per-family research. Sub-variants appear in the Notes column rather than as separate rows.		The table covers every Oyster-line bracelet ref tracked in the per-family research. Sub-variants appear in the Notes column rather than as separate rows.

	{\| class="wikitable sortable"		{\| class="wikitable sortable"
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	== End links ==		== End links ==

	End links sit between the bracelet and the case lugs. ~~The~~ reference number is stamped on the underside of the end link itself ~~for HEL (hollow end link) generations through the late 1990s;~~ SEL (solid end link) generations from the late 1990s onward stamp ~~the~~ date code, part number, and the Rolex ~~crown~~ into the ~~end-link~~ underside ~~but~~ the bracelet ~~ref carries~~ the ~~full SKU~~.		End links sit between the bracelet and the case lugs. On HEL (hollow end link) generations through the late 1990s, the end-link reference number is stamped on the underside of the end link itself. SEL (solid end link) generations from the late 1990s onward stamp a date code, a part number, and the Rolex coronet into the underside; the full bracelet SKU lives on the bracelet, not the end link.

	{\| class="wikitable sortable"		{\| class="wikitable sortable"
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	== Clasps ==		== Clasps ==

	The clasp is the most date-specific component on a vintage Rolex. Pre-1976 clasps carry quarterly numeric stamps inside the blade (Roman quarter dot two-digit year~~, e.g.~~ <code>III.59</code> for third quarter 1959)~~; from~~ 1976 onward Rolex moved to a single-letter or double-letter year code stamped on the underside. The Daytona never adopted Glidelock — the modern 116500LN / 126500LN ~~ships~~ on a 97200-derivative Oyster with Easylink only.		The clasp is the most date-specific component on a vintage Rolex. Pre-1976 clasps carry quarterly numeric stamps inside the blade (Roman quarter, dot, two-digit year — <code>III.59</code> for third quarter 1959). From 1976 onward Rolex moved to a single-letter or double-letter year code stamped on the underside. The Daytona never adopted Glidelock; the modern 116500LN and 126500LN ship on a 97200-derivative Oyster with Easylink only.

	=== Generation overview ===		=== Generation overview ===
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	=== Date-code key ===		=== Date-code key ===

	The matrix below is the collector community's working consensus, derived from observed clasps rather than a Rolex-published table. ~~The same key appears~~ across ~~multiple independent sources~~ with ~~only~~ minor variation in the 1995–1998 overlap notation~~, enough consistency~~ that the ~~date~~ codes can be trusted ~~outside the noted overlap windows~~.		The matrix below is the collector community's working consensus, derived from observed clasps rather than a Rolex-published table. It agrees across the published collector literature, with minor variation only in the 1995–1998 overlap notation. Outside that window the codes can be trusted.

	{\| class="wikitable sortable"		{\| class="wikitable sortable"
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	\|}		\|}

	Three rules matter. The 1995–1998 letter window overlaps, so a T, W, U, V, or Z clasp code has to be checked against the watch rather than read alone. An <code>S</code> prefix marks a service-replacement clasp, not the original manufacture year. From mid-2011 the codes randomized and lost public year value. On SEL bracelets the code moves to the underside of the end link.		Three rules matter. The 1995–1998 letter window overlaps, so a T, W, U, V, or Z clasp code has to be checked against the watch rather than read alone. An <code>S</code> prefix marks a service-replacement clasp, not the original manufacture year. From mid-2011 the codes randomized and lost any public year value. On SEL bracelets the code moves to the underside of the end link.

	== Link construction types ==		== Link construction types ==

	Five construction styles cover every bracelet ref in the registry. The taxonomy is geometric ~~— a~~ 1958 7205 rivet and a 2024 97200 Oyster are both three-link bracelets, but the rivet ~~generation~~, folded ~~generation~~, and solid ~~generation~~ are mechanically ~~distinct~~ enough that ~~the distinction matters for~~ dating and identification. Pearlmaster and Oysterflex are listed for completeness.		Five construction styles cover every bracelet ref in the registry. The taxonomy is geometric. A 1958 7205 rivet and a 2024 97200 Oyster are both three-link bracelets, but the rivet, folded, and solid generations are mechanically different enough that dating and identification turn on which one is in hand. Pearlmaster and Oysterflex are listed for taxonomy completeness.

	{\| class="wikitable sortable"		{\| class="wikitable sortable"

Admin: Lexical slop sweep: filler adverbs, load-bearing, stands as, breadcrumb, register

2026-04-27T13:31:11Z

Lexical slop sweep: filler adverbs, load-bearing, stands as, breadcrumb, register

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:31, 27 April 2026
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	\| <span id="clasp-easylink"></span>Easylink 5mm comfort extension \|\| 2002–present \|\| 78363, 78490, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 \|\| Internal lever and keeper inside the Oysterclasp body that drops a 5mm extension link without tools. Standard on every modern Sport-model bracelet and the modern Daytona.		\| <span id="clasp-easylink"></span>Easylink 5mm comfort extension \|\| 2002–present \|\| 78363, 78490, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 \|\| Internal lever and keeper inside the Oysterclasp body that drops a 5mm extension link without tools. Standard on every modern Sport-model bracelet and the modern Daytona.
	\|-		\|-
	\| <span id="clasp-glidelock"></span>Glidelock micro-extension \|\| 2008–present \|\| 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 (Submariner only) \|\| Toothed track inside the clasp body, ~20mm of fine adjustment in 2mm steps without tools. Submariner-line only; never adopted on Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer, or Datejust. The ~~load-bearing~~ differentiator between the modern Submariner Oyster and the modern Daytona / GMT-Master Oyster.		\| <span id="clasp-glidelock"></span>Glidelock micro-extension \|\| 2008–present \|\| 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 (Submariner only) \|\| Toothed track inside the clasp body, ~20mm of fine adjustment in 2mm steps without tools. Submariner-line only; never adopted on Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer, or Datejust. The key differentiator between the modern Submariner Oyster and the modern Daytona / GMT-Master Oyster.
	\|}		\|}

Admin: Tighten family and decoder page for faster reading

2026-04-23T14:02:49Z

Tighten family and decoder page for faster reading

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:02, 23 April 2026
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	<small>[[Main Page]] -> '''Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types'''</small>		<small>[[Main Page]] -> '''Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types'''</small>

	This page ~~collects~~ the cross-family bracelet ~~record~~: ~~every~~ Oyster, Jubilee, ~~and~~ President ~~reference the project has documented~~, ~~paired with the~~ end-links ~~that fit each~~, ~~the~~ clasp generations ~~the bracelets ride on~~, and ~~the~~ construction~~-style families~~ the ~~refs belong to. Where two reputable sources disagree on a fitment~~, ~~both readings are stated~~ and the ~~disagreement preserved. Pre~~-~~2020 production references are the focus; modern bracelets appear where they share part numbers~~ or ~~geometry with vintage and discontinued production~~.		This page is the cross-family bracelet decoder: Oyster, Jubilee, President, end links, clasp generations, and link construction types. Use it to answer four questions fast: what bracelet is it, what end links fit, what year does the clasp suggest, and is the bracelet original, period-correct, or later service.

	A ~~bracelet's~~ clasp ~~date~~ code dates the bracelet, not the watch head~~. A swap is always possible~~. The pairings below describe original-equipment fitment unless noted otherwise.		A clasp code dates the bracelet, not the watch head. The pairings below describe original-equipment fitment unless noted otherwise.

	== Bracelets by reference ==		== Bracelets by reference ==
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	\|}		\|}

	Daytona~~-specific~~ clasp generations ~~track~~ the bracelet timeline ~~tightly~~. ~~The~~ Big Logo Gay Frères ~~clasp on early~~ 6239 and 6240 ~~production gives way to the~~ Small Logo ~~Rolex stamp~~ through the manual-wind ~~6262 / 6263 / 6264 / 6265~~ era~~. The Zenith 16520 carries~~ Oysterlock ~~with~~ the ~~78360 bracelet on R / L / E / N / X / C-serial production (1988–~1993)~~, ~~then Oysterlock with short flip-lock~~ and ~~polished centre blade with~~ the ~~78390 bracelet on S / T-serials (~1993–~1997), then SEL Oysterlock~~ with the ~~78390A bracelet on U / A / P-serials (1997–2000)~~. ~~The 116520 ships with the modern Oysterclasp from launch —~~ Easylink ~~appears~~ around 2002 ~~and stays~~.		Daytona clasp generations follow the bracelet timeline closely. Big Logo Gay Frères belongs to the earliest 6239 and 6240 period, Small Logo runs through the late manual-wind era, Oysterlock covers the 16520 years, and the modern Oysterclasp starts with the 116520. Easylink arrives around 2002.

	=== Date-code key ===		=== Date-code key ===
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	\|}		\|}

	Three ~~notes anchor the table~~. The 1995–1998 ~~stretch~~ overlaps ~~— Rolex used multiple letters per year through the late-tritium / Luminova transition era~~, so a T, W, U, V, or Z clasp ~~blade~~ has to be ~~cross-~~checked against ~~case serial and dial features~~ rather than read ~~in isolation~~. An <code>S</code> prefix ~~on a clasp letter (e.g. <code>SP</code>)~~ marks a service-replacement clasp~~: the watch was serviced in that year and the clasp swapped~~, not the manufacture year ~~of the original clasp~~. From mid-2011 the codes randomized ~~— three alphanumeric characters with no~~ public year ~~mapping~~. SEL bracelets ~~stamp~~ the ~~date~~ code~~, part number, and the Rolex crown into~~ the underside of the end link ~~itself, not just the clasp blade~~.		Three rules matter. The 1995–1998 letter window overlaps, so a T, W, U, V, or Z clasp code has to be checked against the watch rather than read alone. An <code>S</code> prefix marks a service-replacement clasp, not the original manufacture year. From mid-2011 the codes randomized and lost public year value. On SEL bracelets the code moves to the underside of the end link.

	== Link construction types ==		== Link construction types ==

Admin: Remove scope-meta self-reference phrasing per user directive

2026-04-20T00:57:41Z

Remove scope-meta self-reference phrasing per user directive

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:57, 20 April 2026
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	== Link construction types ==		== Link construction types ==

	Five construction styles cover every bracelet ref in the registry. The taxonomy is geometric — a 1958 7205 rivet and a 2024 97200 Oyster are both three-link bracelets, but the rivet generation, folded generation, and solid generation are mechanically distinct enough that the distinction matters for dating and identification. Pearlmaster and Oysterflex are listed for completeness~~; both sit outside the project's core five-family scope~~.		Five construction styles cover every bracelet ref in the registry. The taxonomy is geometric — a 1958 7205 rivet and a 2024 97200 Oyster are both three-link bracelets, but the rivet generation, folded generation, and solid generation are mechanically distinct enough that the distinction matters for dating and identification. Pearlmaster and Oysterflex are listed for completeness.

	{\| class="wikitable sortable"		{\| class="wikitable sortable"

Admin: Drop dealer/hobbyist roll-call from Millenary matrix paragraph; reference sources generically

2026-04-19T01:23:09Z

Drop dealer/hobbyist roll-call from Millenary matrix paragraph; reference sources generically

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:23, 19 April 2026
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	=== Date-code key ===		=== Date-code key ===

	The matrix below is the collector community's working consensus, derived from observed clasps rather than a Rolex-published table. The same key appears, with minor variation in the 1995–1998 overlap notation, ~~across Millenary Watches, watch-collector.co.uk, Belmont, the rolexusedparts blog, and Sweepinghand —~~ enough consistency that the date codes can be trusted outside the noted overlap windows.		The matrix below is the collector community's working consensus, derived from observed clasps rather than a Rolex-published table. The same key appears across multiple independent sources with only minor variation in the 1995–1998 overlap notation, enough consistency that the date codes can be trusted outside the noted overlap windows.

	{\| class="wikitable sortable"		{\| class="wikitable sortable"

Admin: Cut internal-anchor + sub-variant scaffolding; keep concise Notes-column rule

2026-04-19T01:22:39Z

Cut internal-anchor + sub-variant scaffolding; keep concise Notes-column rule

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:22, 19 April 2026
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	== Bracelets by reference ==		== Bracelets by reference ==

	The table below covers every Oyster-line bracelet ref tracked in the per-family research. ~~Internal anchors (e.g. <code>#bracelet-78360</code>) are stable so per-ref articles can deep-link to the row. Where a bracelet has material sub~~-variants ~~(the 78350-17 vs 78350-19 width split, the 78390 vs 78390A SEL bridge, the 7206 small-rivet vs large-rivet sub-generations), the variant note appears~~ in the Notes column rather than as a separate ~~row~~.		The table below covers every Oyster-line bracelet ref tracked in the per-family research. Sub-variants appear in the Notes column rather than as separate rows.

	{\| class="wikitable sortable"		{\| class="wikitable sortable"

Admin: New bracelet hardware reference (23 bracelets + 23 end-links + 12 clasps + 8 link types, sortable tables, 78490/78690 dispute preserved)

2026-04-19T01:19:28Z

New bracelet hardware reference (23 bracelets + 23 end-links + 12 clasps + 8 link types, sortable tables, 78490/78690 dispute preserved)

New page

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Bracelet Reference Guide — Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types
|description=Cross-family Rolex bracelet reference: every Oyster, Jubilee, and President bracelet ref the project documents, with end-link compatibility, clasp generations, the Millenary date-code key, and link-construction families.
|keywords=Rolex bracelet, Oyster bracelet, Jubilee bracelet, end link, Oysterlock, Glidelock, Easylink, clasp date code, 78360, 78390, 78490, 93150, bracelet reference guide
|type=article
}}

[[Main Page]] -> '''Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types'''

This page collects the cross-family bracelet record: every Oyster, Jubilee, and President reference the project has documented, paired with the end-links that fit each, the clasp generations the bracelets ride on, and the construction-style families the refs belong to. Where two reputable sources disagree on a fitment, both readings are stated and the disagreement preserved. Pre-2020 production references are the focus; modern bracelets appear where they share part numbers or geometry with vintage and discontinued production.

A bracelet's clasp date code dates the bracelet, not the watch head. A swap is always possible. The pairings below describe original-equipment fitment unless noted otherwise.

== Bracelets by reference ==

The table below covers every Oyster-line bracelet ref tracked in the per-family research. Internal anchors (e.g. <code>#bracelet-78360</code>) are stable so per-ref articles can deep-link to the row. Where a bracelet has material sub-variants (the 78350-17 vs 78350-19 width split, the 78390 vs 78390A SEL bridge, the 7206 small-rivet vs large-rivet sub-generations), the variant note appears in the Notes column rather than as a separate row.

{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Ref !! Name !! Years !! Link type !! End-link compatibility !! Families fitted !! Notes
|-
| '''6635''' || Oyster rivet, 19mm (early Cosmograph) || 1955–1962 || Rivet || 271 || Daytona, Oyster Perpetual || Pre-Cosmograph rivet for the chronograph 6234 / 6238 era. Largely supplanted by 7205 by the 6239 launch.
|-
| '''7205''' || Oyster rivet, 19mm || 1958–1969 || Rivet || 271 || Daytona, Oyster Perpetual || 19mm sport / Air-King / Precision rivet bracelet. The 20mm Sport-model sibling is 7206. US-market C&I (Connecticut) made an unmarked-end-link 19mm rivet analogue 1959–1979; not a Rolex part.
|-
| '''7206''' || Oyster rivet, 20mm || 1958–1969 || Rivet || 58, 60, 80 || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || Two sub-generations: early small rivets (1958–early 60s) shifting to larger rivets in the mid-60s. End-link 80 is the 5513-era stamp; 58 / 60 carry on earlier small-crown / 1960 holdovers.
|-
| '''9315''' || Oyster rivet, 20mm (early Sport-model) || 1953–1958 || Rivet || 58, 60 || Submariner, Explorer || Earliest Oyster rivet for the Sport-model line. Pre-7206 generation, lighter gauge.
|-
| '''7835''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm || 1969–1976 || Folded || 271 || Daytona || Folded-link successor to 7205 on the 19mm Daytona case. Some aggregator tables show "771" — propagated OCR error of "271"; independent dealer photos only ever stamp 271.
|-
| '''7836''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || 1969–1976 || Folded || 380, 380B || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || 20mm Sport-model sibling of 7835. Documented through five-digit transitional production prior to the solid-link 93150 generation.
|-
| '''78350''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm (later folded) || 1976–1984 || Folded || 571, 380 || Daytona, Submariner || Late folded generation; documented as 78350-17 and 78350-19 width variants on the Millenary spec sheets. Substituted on later 6263 / 6265 production where original 7835 had failed.
|-
| '''78360''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (full matte) || 1976–1993 || Solid || 503, 580 || Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || First solid-link Oyster, brushed throughout. The 78360 → 78390 cutover on the Daytona 16520 sits in a 1991–1993 band: chrono-shop's archived 16520 listing places 78390 production start at 1991, the Blackbird Watch Manual at 1993.
|-
| '''78390''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (polished centre) || 1991–1998 || Solid || 503B || Daytona, Submariner || Brushed outer, polished centre — the visual upgrade from 78360. Late production carries a short flip-lock clasp blade. The "B" suffix on end-link 503B denotes the matching polished middle piece.
|-
| '''78390A''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm with SEL || 1997–2000 || Solid || 503B || Daytona || Bridge generation between separable-end-link 78390 and machined SEL 78490. Documented on late 16520 U / A / P-serial production.
|-
| '''78490''' || Oyster solid link with SEL, 20mm || 2000–2010s || Solid || 501B || Daytona, Submariner || Full SEL, machined links, Easylink 5mm comfort extension introduced mid-production. The 116520 bracelet ref is contested: Boettcher, watch-collector.co.uk, and the Blackbird Watch Manual all attest 78490; a handful of aggregator tables list 78690, which other primary sources tie to the Explorer 14270. Treat 78490 as the working reading pending a Rolex catalog or 116520 caseback paper.
|-
| '''78690''' || Oyster SEL, 20mm (Explorer-fitment) || 1990–2000s || Solid || 558, 558B || Explorer || Documented as the Explorer 14270 / 114270 SEL bracelet. Not a Daytona fitment despite older aggregator listings cross-referencing it to the 116520 — see the 78490 row for the dispute.
|-
| '''78790''' || Oyster SEL, 20mm (Datejust / GMT / Explorer fitment) || 1990s–2000s || Solid || 558 || Explorer, GMT-Master || Sister bracelet to 78690 fitted across non-Daytona Sport-model 20mm cases of the same era. No documented Daytona application.
|-
| '''93150''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (Submariner / GMT / Sea-Dweller) || 1976–1990 || Solid || 580, 585 || Submariner, GMT-Master || Heavier solid-link generation for Sport-model 20mm cases. Distinct from 78360 in link gauge and end-link family. No documented Daytona OE fitment.
|-
| '''78240''' || Jubilee, 20mm (five-link, smaller) || 1976–2000s || Jubilee || 455 || Submariner, GMT-Master, Oyster Perpetual || Cross-fitted Datejust 36mm, Submariner Rolesor, and Pepsi GMT-Master 16700 / 16710. Original Jubilee fitment for the 16710.
|-
| '''62510H''' || Jubilee with Oysterclasp, 20mm || 1991–2007 || Jubilee || 455 || GMT-Master || Jubilee link construction with the heavier Oysterclasp body. Sometimes documented as 62510D / 62510M for parallel-era variants per the Millenary Watches Rolex spec sheets; the letter suffix marks a hollow-vs-solid generation.
|-
| '''93250''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (steel / yellow gold) || 1980–1990 || Solid || 501 || Submariner, GMT-Master || Two-tone Rolesor solid link. Replaced by 78363 in the SEL transition.
|-
| '''78363''' || Oyster solid link with SEL, 20mm (steel / yellow gold) || 1991–2000s || Solid || 501, 501B || Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master || Two-tone SEL successor to 93250. The Daytona Rolesor (16523) bracelet ref through the cutover to 78393. The 78363 → 78393 transition year on the 16523 is not directly attested; the 16523 serial table inherits the cutover from the 16520 78360 → 78390 mark.
|-
| '''8385''' || President, 20mm 18k yellow gold || 1970s onward || President || 455 || Oyster Perpetual || Designed for Day-Date 18038. No documented Daytona application — yellow gold Daytonas (6263YG, 6265YG, 16518, 16528) shipped on the 18k yellow gold version of the Oyster.
|-
| '''97200''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (modern Sport-model) || 2003–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Modern Oysterclasp with Easylink across every fitment. Glidelock on Submariner only; the GMT-Master line never adopted Glidelock. The Daytona 116500LN / 126500LN ships on a 97200-derivative Oyster with Easylink only.
|-
| '''97203''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (steel / yellow gold) || 2003–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Modern Rolesor Sport-model. Easylink on every fitment; Glidelock on Submariner Rolesor variants only.
|-
| '''97208''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold) || 2003–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Yellow gold modern Sport-model bracelet. Heavier than 97200 by gold density.
|-
| '''97209''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k white gold) || 2014–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Premium-tier white gold Sport-model bracelet. Same Oyster three-link geometry as 97200 / 97203 / 97208 in different alloy.
|}

== End links ==

End links sit between the bracelet and the case lugs. The reference number is stamped on the underside of the end link itself for HEL (hollow end link) generations through the late 1990s; SEL (solid end link) generations from the late 1990s onward stamp the date code, part number, and the Rolex crown into the end-link underside but the bracelet ref carries the full SKU.

{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Ref !! Bracelets it fits !! Case lugs (families / refs) !! SEL or HEL !! Year cutover !! Notes
|-
| '''58''' || 9315, 7206 || Submariner 6204 / 6205 / 6536 / 6536-1 / 6538; Explorer 6150 / 6350 / 6610 || HEL || late 1950s || Earliest-generation 20mm Sport-model end link.
|-
| '''60''' || 9315, 7206 || Submariner 5508 / 5510 / 5512; Explorer 6610 / 1016 || HEL || ~1960 || Second-generation small-crown / early five-digit Sport-model end link.
|-
| '''80''' || 7206 || Submariner 5512 / 5513 / 1680; Explorer 1016 || HEL || ~1969 || Definitive 5513-era 7206 rivet end-link stamp per the Field Manual.
|-
| '''271''' || 7205, 7835, 6635 || Daytona 6238 / 6239 / 6240 / 6241 / 6262 / 6263 / 6264 / 6265; Oyster Perpetual 1002 / 1007 / 5500 || HEL || ~early 1980s || The "771" code that appears in some chrono-shop and watch-collector Daytona rows is a propagated OCR / copy-paste error of "271"; independent dealer photos only ever stamp 271.
|-
| '''379''' || 62510H, 78240 || Oyster Perpetual 1601 / 16014 / 16030 || HEL || late 1970s || Jubilee end link for 19mm Datejust 1601 / Air-King fitments. Not documented on Daytona.
|-
| '''380''' || 7836, 78350 || Submariner 5512 / 5513 / 1680; GMT-Master 1675; Explorer 1016 / 1655 || HEL || ~1976 || Folded-bracelet end link for the 20mm Sport-model line. Predates the solid 78360 / 503 family.
|-
| '''380B''' || 7836 || Submariner 5513 / 1680 || HEL || ~1976 || "B" suffix denotes the polished-middle variant on the late folded generation. Direct attestation thin.
|-
| '''381''' || 7836 || Oyster Perpetual 1601 / 16014 || HEL || ~1977 || Datejust / Oyster Perpetual 36mm folded end link.
|-
| '''451''' || 78240 || Oyster Perpetual 68273 || HEL || 1980s || Documented on ladies' President / Datejust bracelets per chrono-shop. Not documented on Daytona.
|-
| '''455''' || 78240, 62510H, 8385 || GMT-Master 16710 / 16700; Oyster Perpetual 16013 / 18038 || HEL || 1980s–1990s || Jubilee / President end link cross-fitted across Sport-model Jubilee and Day-Date / Datejust 36mm.
|-
| '''471''' || 78240 || Oyster Perpetual 16030 / 16013 || HEL || 1980s || Datejust 16030 / 16013-era end link. Not documented on Daytona.
|-
| '''501''' || 78363, 93250 || Daytona 16523; Submariner 16613 / 16803; GMT-Master 16713 || HEL || ~1991 || Two-tone end link family. Pairs with 78363 (steel + yellow gold) and 93250 across the Sport-model Rolesor line.
|-
| '''501B''' || 78363, 78490 || Daytona 116520 / 16523; Submariner 16610 / 16613 || SEL || ~2000 || B suffix marks the polished-middle SEL variant. Pairs with 78490 on the steel 116520; with 78363 on the Rolesor 16523.
|-
| '''502B''' || 78490 || Submariner 16610LV || SEL || ~2003 || "Kermit" 16610LV-era SEL end link variant. Direct attestation thin.
|-
| '''503''' || 78360 || Daytona 16520 || HEL || ~1993 || Full matte (no polished middle); pairs with 78360 on the Daytona 16520 first generation.
|-
| '''503B''' || 78390, 78390A || Daytona 16520 || HEL || ~1997 || Polished-middle variant. Pairs with 78390 on the polished-centre Daytona 16520. The 78390A SEL bridge generation reuses the 503B end-link family number.
|-
| '''558''' || 78690, 78790 || Explorer 14270 / 114270 / 16570 || HEL || ~1998 || Explorer 14270-era end link. The Daytona-vs-Explorer confusion on the 78690 bracelet ref hinges on this end-link family.
|-
| '''558B''' || 78690 || Explorer 114270 || SEL || ~2001 || Polished-middle SEL Explorer end link.
|-
| '''571''' || 78350 || Daytona 6263 / 6265 / 6240 / 6241 || HEL || ~early 1980s || Documented on chrono-shop archived listings as the 78350 end-link stamp.
|-
| '''580''' || 93150, 78360 || Submariner 5512 / 5513 / 1680 / 16800 / 168000 / 16610; Explorer 1016; GMT-Master 1675 / 16750 || HEL || ~1990 || Sport-model 20mm solid-link end link, the 93150 generation. Cross-fitted across Submariner / GMT / Explorer 20mm cases. Not documented as Daytona OE.
|-
| '''583''' || 93150 || Oyster Perpetual 18038 / 18238 || HEL || ~1985 || Likely a Day-Date / Datejust end link. Direct attestation thin; included for completeness.
|-
| '''585''' || 93150 || Submariner 16610 / 16800 / 168000 || HEL || ~1990 || RolexHaven groups 580 / 585 as the Sport-model SEL transition end-link family.
|-
| '''integral SEL''' || 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 || Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV / 126610LN / 126610LV / 126613LB / 126613LN / 126618LN; GMT-Master 116710LN / 116710BLNR / 126710BLNR / 126710BLRO / 126713GRNR / 126718GRNR / 126719BLRO || SEL || 2003 onward || Modern Sport-model end-links are integral to the first link of the bracelet and not separable. No printed end-link ref number; the bracelet ref carries the full SKU.
|}

== Clasps ==

The clasp is the most date-specific component on a vintage Rolex. Pre-1976 clasps carry quarterly numeric stamps inside the blade (Roman quarter dot two-digit year, e.g. <code>III.59</code> for third quarter 1959); from 1976 onward Rolex moved to a single-letter or double-letter year code stamped on the underside. The Daytona never adopted Glidelock — the modern 116500LN / 126500LN ships on a 97200-derivative Oyster with Easylink only.

=== Generation overview ===

{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Generation !! Years !! Refs that used it !! Distinguishing features
|-
| Folding clasp (Gay Frères / Rolex stamped) || 1953–1969 || 7205, 7206, 7835, 7836, 9315, 6635 || Folded steel blade, no flip-lock. Big Logo (Gay Frères) on early small-crown and 6238-era; Small Logo (Rolex coronet) from 1958.
|-
| Oysterlock folded clasp || 1976–~1997 || 78350, 78360, 78390, 93150, 93250 || Folded blade with Oysterlock safety latch; short flip-lock extension introduced ~1983 on Sport models, ~1993 on the Daytona 16520. Single-letter date code on blade (A=1976 onward).
|-
| Oysterclasp with Easylink (modern) || 2002–present || 78363, 78490, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 || Solid machined Oysterclasp body. Easylink 5mm extension lever inside the clasp body. Milled crown stamp on inner clasp from ~2010 on late 116520 and modern Sport-model production.
|-
| Easylink 5mm comfort extension || 2002–present || 78363, 78490, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 || Internal lever and keeper inside the Oysterclasp body that drops a 5mm extension link without tools. Standard on every modern Sport-model bracelet and the modern Daytona.
|-
| Glidelock micro-extension || 2008–present || 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 (Submariner only) || Toothed track inside the clasp body, ~20mm of fine adjustment in 2mm steps without tools. Submariner-line only; never adopted on Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer, or Datejust. The load-bearing differentiator between the modern Submariner Oyster and the modern Daytona / GMT-Master Oyster.
|}

Daytona-specific clasp generations track the bracelet timeline tightly. The Big Logo Gay Frères clasp on early 6239 and 6240 production gives way to the Small Logo Rolex stamp through the manual-wind 6262 / 6263 / 6264 / 6265 era. The Zenith 16520 carries Oysterlock with the 78360 bracelet on R / L / E / N / X / C-serial production (1988–~1993), then Oysterlock with short flip-lock and polished centre blade with the 78390 bracelet on S / T-serials (~1993–~1997), then SEL Oysterlock with the 78390A bracelet on U / A / P-serials (1997–2000). The 116520 ships with the modern Oysterclasp from launch — Easylink appears around 2002 and stays.

=== Date-code key ===

The matrix below is the collector community's working consensus, derived from observed clasps rather than a Rolex-published table. The same key appears, with minor variation in the 1995–1998 overlap notation, across Millenary Watches, watch-collector.co.uk, Belmont, the rolexusedparts blog, and Sweepinghand — enough consistency that the date codes can be trusted outside the noted overlap windows.

{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Code !! Year !! Code !! Year !! Code !! Year
|-
| A || 1976 || M || 1988 || DT || 2002
|-
| B || 1977 || N || 1989 || AD || 2003
|-
| C || 1978 || O || 1990 || CL || 2004
|-
| D || 1979 || P || 1991 || MA || 2005
|-
| E || 1980 || Q || 1992 || OP || 2006
|-
| F || 1981 || R || 1993 || EO || 2007
|-
| G || 1982 || S || 1994 || PJ || 2008
|-
| H || 1983 || T or W || 1995 || LT || 2009
|-
| I || 1984 || U or V || 1996 || RS || 2010
|-
| J || 1985 || U or Z || 1997 || CP || 2011
|-
| K || 1986 || W or Z || 1998 || (random) || 2011 onward
|-
| L || 1987 || X || 1999 || ||
|-
| || || AB || 2000 || ||
|-
| || || DE || 2001 || ||
|}

Three notes anchor the table. The 1995–1998 stretch overlaps — Rolex used multiple letters per year through the late-tritium / Luminova transition era, so a T, W, U, V, or Z clasp blade has to be cross-checked against case serial and dial features rather than read in isolation. An <code>S</code> prefix on a clasp letter (e.g. <code>SP</code>) marks a service-replacement clasp: the watch was serviced in that year and the clasp swapped, not the manufacture year of the original clasp. From mid-2011 the codes randomized — three alphanumeric characters with no public year mapping. SEL bracelets stamp the date code, part number, and the Rolex crown into the underside of the end link itself, not just the clasp blade.

== Link construction types ==

Five construction styles cover every bracelet ref in the registry. The taxonomy is geometric — a 1958 7205 rivet and a 2024 97200 Oyster are both three-link bracelets, but the rivet generation, folded generation, and solid generation are mechanically distinct enough that the distinction matters for dating and identification. Pearlmaster and Oysterflex are listed for completeness; both sit outside the project's core five-family scope.

{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Style !! Years !! Identifying features !! Bracelet refs using
|-
| '''Rivet (hollow)''' || 1940s–1969 || Hollow folded steel links joined with visible rivet heads on the link sides; lighter gauge than later folded or solid generations. || 6635, 7205, 7206, 9315
|-
| '''Folded (hollow non-rivet)''' || 1969–1980s || Folded steel construction with no exposed rivet heads; polished outer / brushed centre links visible on most variants; lighter on the wrist than solid-link successors. || 7835, 7836, 78350
|-
| '''Solid (machined or stamped solid)''' || 1976–present || Solid steel link bodies, no folded or rivet construction; brushed throughout (78360) or brushed outer / polished centre (78390 onward); SEL introduction ~1997 on Sport models is a sub-generation. || 78360, 78363, 78390, 78390A, 78490, 78690, 78790, 93150, 93250, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209
|-
| '''Jubilee (five-link)''' || 1945–present || Five-link construction — three smaller polished centre links flanked by two larger brushed outer links; smoother on the wrist than three-link Oyster. || 78240, 62510H
|-
| '''Oyster (three-link flat)''' || 1947–present || Three-link construction with flat brushed outer links and a narrower centre; the default Sport-model bracelet across every era from the 1950s on. Modern Oyster carries integral SEL and a machined clasp body. || 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209
|-
| '''President (three-piece semi-circular)''' || 1956–present || Three-piece links with semi-circular polished outer profile; always solid precious metal (yellow, white, or rose gold; platinum). || 8385
|-
| '''Pearlmaster (five-piece rounded)''' || 1992–present || Five-piece links with a rounded profile, gem-set centre and outer; gem-set Datejust / Pearlmaster fitment only. Out of project scope; listed for taxonomy completeness. || (none in scope)
|-
| '''Oysterflex (elastomer over titanium blade)''' || 2015–present || Black FKM elastomer overmolded over a flexible titanium / nickel alloy blade; looks like a rubber strap, mechanically a bracelet. Oysterclasp with Glidelock on Yacht-Master variants; Oysterclasp with Easylink on the ceramic Daytona 116515LN / 116519LN and the white-gold 126506. || (no 7-series ref number; tracked by case reference)
|}

== Sources ==

* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/ vintagewatchstraps.com (Boettcher)] — primary source for Oyster case-maker history, Wilsdorf brand-universe research, and bracelet-evolution analysis referenced throughout this page.
* [https://millenarywatches.com/bracelet-and-clasp-codes/ Millenary Watches — Bracelet and Clasp Codes: Complete Resource Guide] — date-code key A=1976 → CP=2011 plus Rolex-published bracelet specification sheets reproduced inline.
* [https://chrono-shop.net/en/blog/rolex-watch-bracelet-references-numbers--n13 chrono-shop.net — Rolex watch bracelet references numbers] — model-by-model bracelet / end-link compatibility list (contains OCR typos: "73850" for "78350", "771" for "271").
* [https://watch-collector.co.uk/rolex-bracelet-end-link-codes/ watch-collector.co.uk — Rolex Bracelet End Link Codes] — same matrix as chrono-shop in cleaner table form; confirms 78490 (not 78690) as the steel 116520 bracelet.
* [https://rolexhaven.com/bracelets.html RolexHaven.com — Sport-model bracelet and end-link reference] — Submariner / GMT / Explorer / Sea-Dweller end-link code table.
* [https://www.blackbird-watchmanual.com/manual/icons/the-rolex-daytona-reference-16520/ Blackbird Watch Manual — The Rolex Daytona Reference 16520] — independent confirmation of the 78360 → 78390 → 78390A bracelet progression on the 16520.
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' (Colin White) — bracelet / end-link / clasp tables for every five-digit reference.

[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Bracelets]]