Reference:submariner

The Rolex Submariner is the most recognized dive watch ever made and one of the most influential wristwatch designs in history. First introduced in 1953 as the reference 6204, the Submariner has been in continuous production for over seventy years across more than three dozen distinct reference numbers. It defined what a sport watch looks like — rotating bezel, luminous dial, water resistance — and every dive watch made since exists in its shadow.

This page is the complete index of every Submariner reference covered on BezelBase, organized by era. Each linked article covers the full production story for one reference: specifications, movement history, dial variants, case details, bracelet fitment, and market context.

Early Submariner (1953–1959)

The experimental years before Rolex settled on what the Submariner would become. Crown sizes changed, depth ratings jumped from 100 to 200 meters, hands moved from pencil to Mercedes style, and dial layouts shifted between clean faces and Explorer-style 3-6-9 numerals. This era produced some of the rarest and most valuable Submariners ever made.

• 6204 — the first Submariner, 1953. 100m depth rating, small crown, no crown guards.
• 6205 — parallel early production alongside the 6204, minor dial and case variations.
• 6200 — the “King Sub.” Oversized 8mm crown, 200m depth rating, Explorer dial option. One of the most sought-after vintage Rolexes.
• 6536 — transitional reference with smaller crown, 100m rating, Mercedes hands.
• 6536/1 — updated version with improved crown and movement.
• 6538 — large crown, 200m rating, the watch Sean Connery wore as James Bond. Consistently among the highest-valued Submariners at auction.

See also: the Rolex Submariner early family overview for production timelines and cross-reference details.

Crown-guard era (1958–1990)

The Submariner finds its lasting form. Crown guards appear on the 5512 in 1959 and become permanent. This era establishes the two-track system — chronometer and non-chronometer — and introduces the date complication that would define the modern Submariner.

No-date references

• 5508 — small crown, no crown guards, last of the pre-crown-guard no-date line.
• 5510 — rare transitional reference bridging the 5508 and 5512.
• 5512 — chronometer-certified no-date Submariner with crown guards. Gilt and matte dial eras.
• 5513 — the longest-running Submariner reference, 27 years of continuous production (approximately 1962–1989). Non-chronometer counterpart to the 5512. Gilt dials, matte dials, Explorer dials, Bart Simpson dials, military-issue variants.
• 5514 — COMEX-issued variant for professional saturation divers.
• 5517 — British Military issued Submariner with fixed spring bars and Ministry of Defence markings.

Date references

• 1680 — the first Submariner with a date window, approximately 1969–1979. Splits into the Red Sub era (red “SUBMARINER” text, six distinct Mark numbers) and the later White Sub with all-white text. The Mark I Red Sub and tropical chocolate dial variants are among the most collected vintage Submariners.

See also: the Rolex Submariner 5xxx family overview for production timelines and cross-reference details.

Five-digit era (1979–2010)

The modern Submariner takes shape. Sapphire crystal replaces acrylic. Movements advance from caliber 3035 to 3135. Rolex expands the line into precious metals and introduces the first colored ceramic bezel insert.

No-date references

• 14060 — no-date Submariner with sapphire crystal and caliber 3000, 1990–2000.
• 14060M — updated with caliber 3130 and Superlative Chronometer certification, 2000–2012.

Date references (steel)

• 16800 — the transitional reference that brought sapphire crystal and caliber 3035 to the Submariner Date, 1979–1986.
• 16610 — the 23-year production run Submariner Date with caliber 3135. Solid end links, Parachrom hairspring, and engraved rehaut came in stages. The benchmark modern Submariner.
• 16610LV — the “Kermit.” First green-bezel Submariner, introduced in 2003 for the 50th anniversary. Aluminum green insert on a steel Submariner Date.

Date references (precious metal)

• 16803 — two-tone steel and gold Submariner Date with blue or black dial.
• 16808 — full 18ct yellow gold Submariner Date.
• 16613 — two-tone steel and gold, the successor to the 16803.
• 16618 — full 18ct yellow gold successor to the 16808.

Six-digit era (2010–present)

Cerachrom ceramic bezels, Glidelock micro-adjusting bracelets, and the move from 40mm to 41mm define the current generation. The six-digit references represent the Submariner at its most technically refined — and increasingly, the beginning of their own collecting era.

No-date references

• 114060 — the last 40mm no-date Submariner, 2012–2020. Maxi dial, ceramic bezel, caliber 3130. Collectors call it “the last small Sub.”
• 124060 — current production no-date Submariner. 41mm case, caliber 3230 with 70-hour power reserve.

Date references (steel)

• 116610LN — Submariner Date with Cerachrom bezel, Glidelock bracelet, caliber 3135. “LN” = Lunette Noire (black bezel). Produced 2010–2020.
• 116610LV — the “Hulk.” Green dial and green Cerachrom bezel. Produced 2010–2020, now a sought-after modern collectible.
• 126610LN — current production Submariner Date. 41mm, caliber 3235, 70-hour power reserve.
• 126610LV — current production green-bezel Submariner Date. Black dial with green Cerachrom bezel, sometimes called the “Starbucks” or “Cermit.”

Date references (precious metal)

• 116613 — two-tone steel and gold Submariner Date with Cerachrom bezel.
• 116618 — full 18ct yellow gold Submariner Date.
• 116619LB — full 18ct white gold with blue Cerachrom bezel. The “Smurf.”
• 126613LB — current two-tone with blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel.
• 126613LN — current two-tone with black dial and black Cerachrom bezel.
• 126618LB — current full gold with royal blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel. The loudest Submariner in the catalog.
• 126618LN — current full gold with black dial and black Cerachrom bezel.
• 126619LB — current full white gold with blue Cerachrom bezel.

Collecting context

The Submariner is the most liquid vintage watch on the market — more Submariners trade at auction than any other single model. Cultural associations run from James Bond (6538) to COMEX saturation diving (5514) to Steve McQueen. Prices range from a few thousand dollars for a clean late-production 5513 to seven figures for a tropical 6538 with provenance.

Every reference page on BezelBase covers the full production story with cited sources. Where sources disagree, both positions are presented. Where gaps exist, they are named.

Sources

• History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 1, The Early References — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
• History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
• History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 4, Modern References Ceramic — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
• The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
• Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner — Stephen Pulvirent, Hodinkee